Clothes may make the man, but accessories make the man fabulous. Look for the details that let you inner elegance, sly wit, and winning personality shine through. Go for flair, not flash. Flash is garish and screams for attention. Flair, on the other hand, is about a stylish tweak, the right little tszuj that doesn’t ask for attention – but gets it.

Pocket Squares

Ralph Lauren always says “last thing on, first thing noticed.” If you’re wearing a jacket without a tie and you have your shirt open at the collar, you need that touch of color, of contrast and flair, that a pocket square (what some call a “hankie”) provides. There are so many kinds out there—micro-dots and checks and wild paisleys—you’ve got to have fun with it.

Watches

If you’re like most guys, you wear very little jewelry. The one bit of tiling you’re going to invest in will probably be a watch, so why not make it a great one? Even though this is an area in which to shine, I don’t recommend gold for most men. Steel and silver will stand the test of time.

Cuff Links

A great way to inject a bit of dash and humor into your wardrobe. They’re so personal, like jewelry, and flea markets and antiques stores are filled with interesting, inexpensive variations.

The Man Bag

Anything too small to hold a laptop computer is going to look too feminine. And anything that looks like it was meant to carry a laptop is going to make you look like a math major. Invest in leather. A good litmus test for a bag is to ask yourself: If I saw this sitting unattended at an air‑port, would I call security, or want to steal it? Iftheft is the answer, that’s your bag.

Sunglasses

Everyone should own at least one pair of killer shades. Ray-Ban Aviators look great on almost everybody. Steer clear of “sports” sunglasses that make you look like a fly. Avoid dark tints— you’ll wind up looking like Ronnie Milsap. Looking like a blind country singer from the early eighties is so rarely the answer.

Belts

Personality starts in the crotch region. But you knew that. Get a vintage leather strap and find a belt buckle that says something about your personality. If you don’t have a personality, try a Disney character. Thumper, perhaps?

My first rule of style is there are no rules. Okay, there are a few rules, actually: Pleated pants are never the answer. Ascots? One in a million of you can pull it off (the rest of you can hold the -cot and just say ass). And if you ever wear a mustard-colored suit, so help me I will hunt you down and administer some tough love.

People ask me why I think I know everything about fashion. What I politely tell them is that I don’t. I know what options are out there and I have an eye for helping people find out what’s right for them as individuals. I’ve always had a thing for clothes. I was the first kid in fourth grade to have Calvin Klein jeans. I quickly graduated to Sasson disco denim and it was all over. I picked out my sister’s prom dress. She was Prom Queen, hello! But how my classmates dressed never concerned me too much. I was what you’d call precociously self-involved. I just knew I looked good.

Clothes have always given me the feeling that I can be whoever I feel like being on a particular day. Maybe today I’ll get duded up like a Civil War soldier in ratty jeans and a military coat, and tomorrow I’m a latter- day Cary Grant, sans adorable cleft chin, in a classic tailored suit.

One thing that’s missing in a lot of people’s lives these days is a fashion role model. There aren’t many Cary Grants around, and the average workplace has got so casual over the last twenty years that we can’t de‑pend on our fathers to show us how to pick out a suit and fold a pocket square (what some people thoughtlessly call a “hankie” —God, just the sound of that word starts the convulsions—but has much more in common with a fine silk necktie than a snot-rag). Everyone is dressing down, and nobody has any direction. It’s like men have fashion amnesia! Come on, it wasn’t that many years ago that we knew how to tie a tie, but now guys are running around dressed like hobos. So many people know who they are but just aren’t doing anything to shape that message and get it across in what they’re wearing. They have no plan. Step one: Have a plan. Step two: If you’re among the couture challenged, run for help! If you break your leg, you would go to the doctor. So why are guys afraid to ask for wardrobe advice? And why are they afraid to ask for directions? I sure as hell don’t know.

A lot of men whose look doesn’t fit them (or the century they happen to be living in) have no idea where to turn. The people closest to them—the wife, the girlfriend, the color-blind parole officer—might not be the most honest or informed sources of advice. Not everybody is as lucky as the men on our show. They have me as their fairy god stylist, on hand to deliver them to sartorial Shangri-la. What you can do at home is select a fashion role model. It can be someone you know, a movie star, anyone who looks cool. Look at what they wear and find out where they get it. Read magazines, ask questions. It’s an education, people. Even if you don’t like to shop, get to know a good salesman. If he’s trustworthy and wants your return business, he’ll give it to you straight. Or perhaps he’ll give it to you queer—perhaps he’ll be a fairy god stylist, too.

Clothes don’t have to be terribly expensive to be totally fabulous. Go for things that fit your body and your lifestyle. Investing in key items of quality that won’t be the victim of the fickle finger of fashion is money well spent. Repeat … After … Me: “I am worthy of couture.”

Layer but don’t match: Mixing denim is good. Matching the same shades of denim is not. Don’t look like a color-coordinated farmer.

Think about length: For casual jeans, a little longer is okay—if the ends fray a bit it will add to the rustic charm. For a neater look, get a size that works for the shoes you’ll be wearing. Denim can be altered, but do not lose the original hem, which carries a lot of the unique stitching and character of the jeans. To shorten, have your tailor save and reattach the original hem

Dress it up top: When paired with a cashmere sweater or a nice jacket, classic five-pocket denim that’s medium to dark is the way to go. Dressing up denim isn’t about going with fancy new fashionable styles; it’s about keeping it simple and classic.

Dress it down low: White sneakers? Sure, thoroughly appropriate for college kids. Otherwise, try mixing the ultra-casual look of denim with a more sophisticated, adult accent on the feet: Classic wingtips or loafers are perfect. Especially without socks. Dean-licious!

How wide should my lapels be?

Nothing much changes in suit styles. Minor details, but what comes around goes around. Designers these days are taking an old look—that narrow congressman lapel, which comes from the ’60s and the whole Kennedy-in-Camelot era—and making it look very chic and modern. There will always be new fabrics and slight tweaks, but if the suit looks timeless to you, it probably is.

The first flavor to consider is the Italian form. Broad shoulders, a little boxy. Often there’s no vent in the back where your butt goes. Think Armani. But also think: I do not want to look like a refugee from The Sopranos. Proceed with caution.

Next is the British variety. It’s got double mud flaps in the rear, known as “double vents,” the history being that when a man was sitting on a horse, the coat would fall elegantly over the cantle of the saddle. They’re also informally called “bugger’s delight,” but that shouldn’t turn you off from this very classic and proper cut.

The American style is sometimes called “the sack suit,” but I hate that name. It sounds like something ugly and burlap—which this isn’t at all. This is the classic Ivy League, J. Press-style suit, with a center-rear vent, and it’s one of my faves. Very clean, with narrow lapels and an elongating form.

There are also double-breasted suits— not my favorite, but if you own a number of suits and are tallish and not doing a lot of sitting, it can work for you. But walking around with the double-breasted jacket open, you look like an out-of-work band leader. And don’t look for bargains here: The off-the-rack DB is a recipe for disastré.

Something to remember about these generalizations is that they’re just that. Since we live in a global, connected, cell-phone kind of world, everyone mixes up the styles like a deejay. Try on examples of all the cuts and see what you like best. Then you’ll know what to ask for as you narrow your choice.

Finally, there’s the question of how many buttons. The traditional choices are two or three buttons; any more than three is way too Sergeant Pepper.

Which button do I close on my jacket?

For a three-button jacket, starting at the top and working down, remember this phrase: sometimes, always, never. For a two-button job, start the phrase at always. If you have more buttons that can be accommodated in these answers, you have too many buttons.

Care and feeding Instructions for your fabulous shirts

Loosen up. Go crazy: Ask for your shirt unpressed. Imagine the straight male bringing home his freshly laundered shirts and … they don’t feel and look like cardboard! Is it too much to dream? We, as a gender, over- starch. The more woven, casual shirts you work into your wardrobe, the more vital it is for you not to treat those shirts like the stiff, formal things you might be used to wearing under a suit. There’s nothing I hate to see more than a guy with a nice stripy shirt on under a blazer, stylishly open at the neck, but stiff as a board and horribly creasing and crackling from all the heavy pressing. (Heavy petting, yes! Heavy pressing, no!) If you’re wearing a sport shirt, treat it like one.

Here is another heresy to freak out your anal-retentive dry-cleaning fiends: Your oxford shirts can be washed at home. It’s actually better for them, as they benefit from more abrasion, getting softer and cuddlier with every wash. But true dress shirts—ones you’re going to wear with a suit and tie—should be sent to the cleaners. I’m a fan of light or no starch. Starched shirts actually show more dramatic wrinkling than their relaxed untreated brethren.

I don’t recommend wearing a T-shirt with sportier shirts. You’ll just look like a geek (pocket protector not included). Wearing a T-shirt with a dress shirt feels good against the skin and protects the higher-quality cotton shirt from sweaty-pit syndrome. Clean your unprotected sport shirts after every wearing, and your T-shirt-protected dress shirts every other time, depending on how your drooling problem is coming along

1. Stripes can add sartorial sass to your suit and tie. More fun than a barrel of credit cards.

2.Worn open with denim. Dressed down but still dressed up. Don’t forget to tszuj the sleeves to show some skin, people.

3.With a blue blazer, the striped shirt becomes the new tie.

4.When paired with a V-neck sweater, the touches of color at the neckline and cuffs will keep you from looking like a swot.

1. Dressed up with a jacket. Ivy League chic. From desk to dinner in one fell swoop.
2. Preppy is as preppy does. Handsome!
3. L.A. cool, with a long-sleeve tee and denim.
4. Worn under the suit, the polo shirt elevates “dressy casual” to just plain cool.

Shirts have evolved to a point where they play a much more important role in our wardrobe than they used to. Where once they were the backdrop for a tie, now they are the focal point. White, blue, and pink oxfords are still staples worth owning. But it’s the colorful, heavily patterned, woven shirt that’s king right now. Most of us have stopped wearing ties to the office and have been missing the extra element of color. Fun, individual shirts can fill that void.

It used to be that the one way a man could express himself in business dress was with a lime- green novelty tie full of elephants drinking martinis or whatever. That was the outlet. It was this narrow little strip screaming “Look at me! Look at me!” I don’t have anything against ties, but I think it’s great now that shirts provide a broader canvas for self-expression. I’m obviously not one for toning it down—have fun with it. Other than skin art, there aren’t too many options.

Striped oxford

The Basic. Don’t ask questions—just buy it.

Cowboy shirt

Soft and cuddly. The more worn in, the better. A multi-tasking, timelessly correct classic.

Blue dress shirt

Like the golden retriever, man’s best friend. Dress it up or down. Makes a great pajama top, too!

Pink

Could pink be the new black? Very likely, but regardless, everyone looks great in pink.

Something zany

Go ahead—let yourself go! A pattern such as paisley is fun and sophisticated, and if it’s done in muted tones, you will look just fine, trust me.

Striped and fun

The most versatile shirt in your wardrobe. Wear it with a suit and tie, jeans, or paisley capri pants. (Just kidding about the capris.)

Gingham

Fresh. Classic. Cute. Avoid red-and-white gingham, as you’ll inevitably look like the host at your local trat.

Denim or chambray

See Robert Redford. Hot.

Knit button-down

Neat knits are a cool alternative to tradition woven button-downs.

A little more sexy. Try it; you might like it.

The first flavor to consider is the Italian form. Broad shoulders, a little boxy. Often there’s no vent in the back where your butt goes. Think Armani. But also think: I do not want to look like a refugee from The Sopranos. Proceed with caution.

Next is the British variety. It’s got double mud flaps in the rear, known as “double vents,” the history being that when a man was sitting on a horse, the coat would fall elegantly over the cantle of the saddle. They’re also informally called “bugger’s delight,” but that shouldn’t turn you off from this very classic and proper cut.

The American style is sometimes called “the sack suit,” but I hate that name. It sounds like something ugly and burlap—which this isn’t at all. This is the classic Ivy League, J. Press-style suit, with a center-rear vent, and it’s one of my faves. Very clean, with narrow lapels and an elongating form.

There are also double-breasted suits— not my favorite, but if you own a number of suits and are tallish and not doing a lot of sitting, it can work for you. But walking around with the double-breasted jacket open, you look like an out-of-work band leader. And don’t look for bargains here: The off-the-rack DB is a recipe for disastré.

Something to remember about these generalizations is that they’re just that. Since we live in a global, connected, cell-phone kind of world, everyone mixes up the styles like a deejay. Try on examples of all the cuts and see what you like best. Then you’ll know what to ask for as you narrow your choice.

Finally, there’s the question of how many buttons. The traditional choices are two or three buttons; any more than three is way too Sergeant Pepper.

Which button do I close on my jacket?

For a three-button jacket, starting at the top and working down, remember this phrase: sometimes, always, never. For a two-button job, start the phrase at always. If you have more buttons that can be accommodated in these answers, you have too many buttons.

Unbuttoned Shirt, Loosened Narrow Tie

A loose and louche look for the right kind of partying man; this can easily stray into schlubby happy-hour-at-Friday’s territory if you’re not careful. Why start your day looking like you just woke up not knowing who or where you are? HOW After work, with a drink at a party. Wear your suit to the office, add jeans, open the tie, tzsuj the sleeves, boom—you’re ready to rock.

Bargain Hunting

A bargain is never a bargain if what you end up with doesn’t fit you right, doesn’t look good on you, or never sees the light of day. Do not buy something just because it’s on sale. Do not become a bargain whore. How to work carefully. Monitor stuff you like and go after them at sale time. But just like not going into supermarkets on an empty stomach, don’t go into mega-sales without a clear idea of what you need.

Sneakers and a Suit

You need attitude to pull this off. And you need the right place to strut it: a party, a funky workplace. Definitely not a wedding. Try this with a traditionally cut suit with a luxury fabric and you’ll look like a moron. How to work. This demands a narrow European-cut suit in a modern fabric, or better yet a summer poplin suit. Nothing too fancy or the look is ruined. A twist for winter is a heavier, tweedy but still slim-cut suit with motorcycle or cowboy boots.

The Belt-Over-the-Belt-Loops Look

This is my specialty, and really I have to warn you against trying it at home. You need a sense of rakish angle, of contrasting weights, and a really cool belt buckle. HOW to work Honey, don’t.

Paisley

Contrary to Elle Woods in Legally Blonde 2, SOME people do look good in paisley. I love an old, bold paisley pattern on a man. How to work it Start with a tie or a pocket square. You don’t want to jump directly to a three-piece suit all in paisley Leave that to me or, better yet, Prince.

Sometimes you just don’t want to wear a suit, but you want to achieve a similar level of sharpness as the suit provides. Enter the jacket (in some circles, known as a sport jacket): pretty much a suit, but without the pants. Jackets range from the traditional navy wool blazer and elbow-patched professorial Harris tweed to the rumpled cream linen number, a cashmere glen plaid, or even sleek Italian leather. Americans haven’t yet embraced the jacket as European men have—walk the streets of Paris, Rome, or Bremerhaven (well, maybe not Bremerhaven), and check out all those elegantly attired Euro-dudes who are not wearing suits. This is something to emulate.

Tell me again why I want to wear a jacket?

Sartorial splendor aside, think pockets, pockets, pockets. I have one with eight, and all but one of them (the pen pocket) are big enough to hold my cute little cell phone.

5 jackets to own

Brown corduroy

Navy

Tweed or herringbone

Cream linen

Plaid

Jackets are for:

Weddings … not funerals.

Dinner dates … not job interviews.

Movies … not the opera.

Graduations … not financial meetings.

Brunches … not bar mitzvahs.

5 ways to wear - jacket

What’s with the gold buttons?

First of all, they should be `;brass, not gold. They shouldn’t be shiny, shouldn’t be garish, shouldn’t look like a rapper’s teeth. If they’re too shiny for your taste, let them naturally tarnish, or remove them and have them dipped in bleach. Brass buttons are innocuous and traditional, part of the nautical heritage of the jacket, and I think they belong there.

5 Ways to wear a Jacket

Relaxed, with a turtleneck and jeans.

Classic, with gray flannels, dress shirt, and tie.

Funky, with a vintage T-shirt.

Collegiate cool, with a cashmere hoody.

Rock ‘n’ roll glam, with layers of denim.