The Kindest Cut to Suit, Custom-made suits
Written on June 7, 2009 – 4:20 am | by dodo
Custom-made suits are the first-class of clothes—no, make that the transatlantic, lay-down-flat-with-slippers-and-wake-upwell-rested-in-Paris sleeper class of clothes. Once you go bespoke, you can’t go back. Even if you never have a suit made, you can learn from them. A suit that’s fitted closely to the body will always look best. If you’ve got a big build, a well-tailored suit beats trying to camouflage things with lots of fabric and a double-breasted cut and pleats and tricks. The greatest suit in the world can look terrible if it’s badly altered. So no matter your shape, find a tailor who will make your suit really fit you. Off-therack suits are sized for the average man, but there is no such creature. God made you unique—just like everyone else.
How wide should my lapels be?
Nothing much changes in suit styles. Minor details, but what comes around goes around. Designers these days are taking an old look—that narrow congressman lapel, which comes from the ’60s and the whole Kennedy-in-Camelot era—and making it look very chic and modern. There will always be new fabrics and slight tweaks, but if the suit looks timeless to you, it probably is.
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