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Men’s Suits the shape of things

Written on May 27, 2009 – 9:28 pm | by dodo

It’s all about silhouette, silhouette, silhouette. Suits come in a million kinds of fabrics, and it can all be a little overwhelming when you’re teetering on couture training wheels. Really, though, there are just a few basic ways suits are shaped. Figure out what they are and where they come from, and you’ll be shopping like a pro.

The first flavor to consider is the Italian form. Broad shoulders, a little boxy. Often there’s no vent in the back where your butt goes. Think Armani. But also think: I do not want to look like a refugee from The Sopranos. Proceed with caution.

Next is the British variety. It’s got double mud flaps in the rear, known as “double vents,” the history being that when a man was sitting on a horse, the coat would fall elegantly over the cantle of the saddle. They’re also informally called “bugger’s delight,” but that shouldn’t turn you off from this very classic and proper cut.

The American style is sometimes called “the sack suit,” but I hate that name. It sounds like something ugly and burlap—which this isn’t at all. This is the classic Ivy League, J. Press-style suit, with a center-rear vent, and it’s one of my faves. Very clean, with narrow lapels and an elongating form.

There are also double-breasted suits— not my favorite, but if you own a number of suits and are tallish and not doing a lot of sitting, it can work for you. But walking around with the double-breasted jacket open, you look like an out-of-work band leader. And don’t look for bargains here: The off-the-rack DB is a recipe for disastré.

Something to remember about these generalizations is that they’re just that. Since we live in a global, connected, cell-phone kind of world, everyone mixes up the styles like a deejay. Try on examples of all the cuts and see what you like best. Then you’ll know what to ask for as you narrow your choice.

Finally, there’s the question of how many buttons. The traditional choices are two or three buttons; any more than three is way too Sergeant Pepper.

Which button do I close on my jacket?

For a three-button jacket, starting at the top and working down, remember this phrase: sometimes, always, never. For a two-button job, start the phrase at always. If you have more buttons that can be accommodated in these answers, you have too many buttons.

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Tags: buttons, men clothing, men fashion, men style, men suits, men wear, Suits