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How to shop for Men’s Suit, Jacket, Slacks or Shirt according to your Body Figure part 3

Written on September 26, 2008 – 4:13 pm | by dodo

Waist/body proportion

A high waist can be camouflaged by trousers with a short distance from crotch to waistband because the belt will sit low on your waist. Sweaters worn over trousers and slightly longer suit jackets will also help create the illusion of a lower waistline. However, pleated trousers should be avoided, as they draw unwanted attention to a high waistline. Casual belts that match or blend with shirt colour lengthen the upper body.

A low waist can be made to appear higher by wearing trousers that have a long distance between crotch and waistband. Wide waistbands and belts that match trousers in colour can also visually raise the waist. Wearing cotton knit shirts or perhaps even sweaters tucked into the waistband will also raise the midline.

Neck

To disguise a long neck, look for shirt collars that fit high on the neck. Crewneck sweaters and turtleneck shirts are good choices for your casual wardrobe. Avoid open V necks.

A short neck will appear longer when you wear V neck sweaters and open collared shirts. In dress shirts, choose styles with low-fitting collars.

Suits and coats will also have to be specially altered to lower the collar. Avoid crewnecks and turtlenecks.

Arms

If you have short arms, lengthen suit jacket sleeves slightly so that a bit less than the usual amount of shirt cuff shows. Also reduce the distance between the hem of the sleeves and the bottom of the jacket by shortening the jacket hem slightly. Suits and jackets cut with high armholes and raised padded shoulders visually lengthen arms. Sweaters and knit shirts with raglan sleeves may also lengthen arms by providing an unbroken line from collar to cuff.

If you have long arms, allow a bit more shirt cuff to show. Any cuff visually shortens your arm. Lengthen your jacket slightly. Elbow patches may also help to break up a long arm line. In casual wear, cotton knit shirts and sweaters with stripes on the upper arms help to create balance.

Upper back

With a rounded back, you do best to select suits in solid colours, since tailoring the jacket to fit your back often distorts the fabric’s pattern at the centre back seam, accentuating the roundness. (Pinstripes that have been bowed into a barrel shape greatly emphasise a round back.) Sweaters with horizontal stripes help to camouflage your posture, but collarless shirts make it appear more pronounced.

Bottom

If you have a prominent bottom, compensate by selecting suit jackets with a single centre vent. If you need a high vent to provide extra room, make sure it lies flat. Wearing sweaters out over your trousers will create a smooth line from shoulder to bottom. Be careful not to let your sweater ride up in the back, making you look swaybacked.

If your bottom is flat, wear jackets with slightly nipped waists and double vents. Trousers must fit flawlessly to avoid a droopy look. For casual trousers, corduroys are better than tight jeans.

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Tags: arms, back, belts that match, bottom, casual, cuff, jacket, jackets, knit shirts, lengthen, neck, shirt, Shirts, slightly, sweaters, trousers, waist