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How to shop for Men’s Suit, Jacket, Slacks or Shirt according to your Body Figure part 2

Written on September 26, 2008 – 4:10 pm | by dodo

Bottom

While standing sideways to the mirror, check the profile of your seat. Especially flat or prominent buttocks require special attention.

Solutions

Now that you know which areas of your body require special consideration, it’s time to focus on the clothing lines and details that will bring your total look into balance.

Height/weight

If you want to look taller, add vertical lines. Consider a three-buttoned suit made of solid or pinstriped material rather than a plaid, check or tweed fabric, which tends to add width. In casual wear, you are best in a monochromatic look—perhaps navy trousers with a navy sweater. A jacket, sweater or shirt that contrasts sharply with your trousers will simply cut you in half. Corduroy, with its vertical ribs, is a good choice in casual trousers. To continue an unbroken line to the floor, wear trousers without turn-ups with only the slightest break over the shoe, and match or at least blend shoe and trouser colour.

If you are too thin, you can look heavier with clothes that add bulk and make use of horizontal lines. Create width in suits by adding some padding to the shoulders and by choosing tweeds and plaids or checks. Avoid three-button suits and heavily waisted coats, which are slimming. If the look suits you, consider wearing widely spaced double rear vents and a double-breasted coat. Sweaters with horizontal stripes are excellent choices for leisure wear. You are the lucky individual who can wear layers of clothing. Try a T-shirt or turtleneck light sweater under your usual shirt.

If you want to minimise your height, horizontal lines can divide the length of your body into segments and make you appear shorter. A dark jacket or sweater with lighter trousers is an excellent way to make yourself look shorter. In suits and jackets, patterns are better than solids. Trousers with turn-ups and prominent breaks can also make you look shorter. Consider wide belts and large buckles or colourful cloth belts with casual wear to provide a strong horizontal line.

To appear slimmer, choose vertical lines that lengthen and narrow your body. Suits with vertical stripes or those solid fabrics are excellent choices. Avoid wide double- breasted suits as well as those with natural shoulders and no nipped-in waist. (A double-breasted suit with buttons placed closer together can be slimming.) A crisp shoulder line and vertical darts in your suits will remove some weight. Heavy tweeds and bulky handmade sweaters will add weight, but trim sweaters with set- in sleeves and V necks will make you look slimmer.

Shoulder/hip proportion

If your shoulders are too broad foryour hips, you need to add dimension below the waist. Suit coats with pocket flaps and casual jackets with patch pockets will add needed width. Avoid peaked and extremely wide lapels, which tend to emphasise shoulder width. When selecting trousers, look for pleats, on-seam pockets, and bulky or heavy fabrics. Trim sweaters with raglan sleeves will also reduce apparent shoulder width and help create a more balanced look in casual wear. Avoid boat neck pullovers, as this wide, shallow neckline increases apparent shoulder width.

If you have hips that are equal to or wider than your shoulders, emphasise the shoulder and chest area. Add some padding to the shoulders of your suits. When possible, select lapels that point upward and outward. Avoid trousers with pleats and on-seam pockets; slanted pockets produce a trimmer look. To add width to the shoulders, wear sweaters and shirts with set-in sleeves and fit them so that the shoulder seams extend slightly beyond your natural shoulder. In casual wear, draw attention upward by combining brightly coloured shirts and sweaters with dark slacks. Sweaters and cotton knit shirts with horizontal stripes across the chest and shoulders are ideal.

Shoulder slope

If your shoulders are tapered,you can make them appear squarer by slightly padding suit shoulders and by choosing, when possible, lapels that point upward. In sweaters and cotton knit shirts, set-in rather than raglan sleeves will add definition to your shoulders.

Soften the angles of very square shoulders by avoiding padding. Suits and jackets with natural shoulders are excellent choices. Extremes of lapel width — either wide or narrow — tend to emphasise the shoulder area and call attention to shoulder shape. Lapels or shirt collars that point somewhat downward will also divert attention away from very square shoulders. In sweaters and cotton knit shirts, raglan sleeves and V necks may help to create the illusion of a more tapered shoulder line.

Leg/torso proportion

To shorten very long legs visually, wear trousers with turn-ups and a prominent break. Wearing a slightly longer suit jacket and selecting slacks with a shorter distance from crotch to waistband may also help diminish apparent leg length. Two-button or single-button jackets offer your best proportions. Wear your belts as low as possible, and choose contrasting colours for your shirts and trousers.

If your legs are short, you can add length by avoiding turn-ups and by hemming trousers at a length that produces only a slight break in the trouser leg over the shoe. Wearing the crotch of your pants as high as is comfortable and shortening your suit jackets slightly will also help create the illusion of longer legs. A three- button suit adds apparent length to your legs as well.

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