Coordinating Jacket, Shirt and Tie
Written on September 19, 2008 – 4:47 am | by dodo
Using your seasonal chart and the guidelines, you can combine your suits and jackets with shirts and ties with minimal effort and maximum impact.
The approach to putting your clothes together is always the same. Think of your suit as your basic building block. It establishes the overall colour, style and look you are aiming for. Your shirt can be your white or any light colour in your palette that is compatible with the suit and the occasion. Your tie must then relate to the shirt colour, the suit colour or both.
With those principles in mind, follow these dos and don’ts to enjoy the pleasure of putting yourself together with grace and impact.
DO: Buy Only Colours from your Chart
Using the Colour for Men system, blending suits or jackets with your shirts and ties will be more fun and much easier than ever before. All your clothes will go together because they are in compatible colours of your season and because you will buy shirts and ties that work interchangeably with your suits. If you have suits in the wrong colours, you may have to purchase a few compromise ties until you are able to phase out the suit (and the tie!). But once your wardrobe has completed its transition, don’t buy anything new in a wrong colour.
DO: Combine three Solids
Wearing a solid-colour shirt, suit, and tie is perfectly acceptable and a sure way to look good. This is not a boring look if the colours are compatible and look good on you. It is low-key, suitable for business, but also elegant.
Although all three clothing items are solids, you are actually combining only two colours, or two colours plus one neutral. Here are some rules for combining three solids tastefully and effectively.
N If your shirt is your season’s white, pale grey, or beige (i.e., pale neutral), your suit and tie may be two distinctly different colours. Usually your tie will be the accent colour. In casual wear the same principle applies, as long as the trousers are grey, beige/tan or your white.
Here are examples, by season, of combinations of three solids with a neutral shirt and two distinct colours, using the tie as accent.
Winter;Navy suit, white shirt, blue-red tie
Summer;Navy suit, soft white shirt, burgundy tie
Autumn;Navy suit, oyster shirt, rust or bittersweet red tie
Spring;Navy suit, ivory shirt, light rust tie
N If your shirt is a colour (blue, pink, etc.), two of the three clothing items must be from the same colour family. A colour family is a series of tints or shades of the same colour. Light blue and navy are both from the blue family. Pink and burgundy are from the blue red family. Peach and rust are from the orange red family. Other same-colour combinations are beige and brown, buff and golden brown, ivory and camel, grey and black, salmon and tomato red.
Here are examples, by season, of combinations of three solids in which the shirt is a colour and the tie is in the same colour family as either the shirt or the suit.
Winter;Navy suit, icy pink shirt, bright burgundy tie (tie and shirt are from the same
Summer;Blue grey suit, light blue shirt, navy tie (tie and shirt are from the same colour family)
Autumn;Coffee brown suit, peach shirt, brown tie (tie and suit are from the same colour family)
Spring ;Tan-coloured suit, peach shirt, light rust tie (tie and shirt are from the same colour family)
DO: Combine two Solids with Pattern
The second surefire look is created by combining two solids or semi-solids with one pattern. A semi-solid is a pattern that is so subtle that it gives the appearance of being solid. This can include a suit with a pattern that fades into the overall background or a tweed that is so closely woven with non-contrasting colours that the eye perceives it as solid.
If you choose a patterned tie, it must pick up the suit colour, the shirt colour or both colours.
Your tie must have some reasonable relationship to the colour of your suit or your shirt, preferably both. The most common error is choosing a tie that doesn’t relate to both items or, sometimes, even to one. For best results, try to pick a tie pattern that repeats the suit colour and the shirt colour. If that’s not possible, then repeat at least one. It’s all right to have a few extra colours in the pattern as long as the suit and/or shirt colours are there.
In casual wear, your patterned tie may pick up the colour of the trousers instead of the shirt and/or jacket.
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2 Responses to “Coordinating Jacket, Shirt and Tie”
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By Black Tie on Sep 19, 2008 | Reply
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