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Big and Tall Clothing for Men do and do not continue…

Do: Combine one Solid with Two Non-Competing Patterns

This combination is tricky because it leaves room for error. It is not as sure or easy as combining three solids, or two solids and one pattern. When done correctly, this combination subtly announces that you know your clothing. When wrong, alas, it loudly proclaims the opposite.

If you are unsure of your ability to recognise non-competing patterns, avoid putting two patterns adjacent to each other and you’ll be safer. In other words, your shirt will be solid.

In casual wear, the same principles apply. Whether you choose a patterned jacket or patterned trousers, your second pattern will probably be your tie. The other two items will be solids.

The basic principles are:

Use a subtle pattern with a stronger one. Two subtle ones look washed out. Two bold ones are garish. A pinstriped shirt, which is subtle and evenly spaced, looks best if the tie has widish stripes rather than thin, evenly spaced stripes.

Keep the lines of the patterns the same, or use one directional pattern with one all-over pattern. Because both checks and stripes have directional lines, they usually don’t mix well with each other because the lines compete. However, a subtle stripe can mix with a bolder stripe or a subtle checked shirt can mix with a check or plaid because the lines are similar. Foulard, paisley, and club ties are all-over patterns, as are tweed, herringbone, tiny box checks, or very subtle checks in suits. These patterns can often mix with stripes or plaids. Two all-over patterns can mix as well, as long as one is subtle and the other stronger, or one is large and the other smaller.

Here are examples, by season, of combining a patterned suit or coat and tie with a solid shirt.

• Pinstriped suit, striped, small patterned or dot tie, solid shirt.
• Chalkstriped suit, heavier pattern in stripes, small patterned or dot tie, solid shirt.
• Subtle business tweed or herringbone suit, striped or small patterned tie, solid shirt.
• Heavy tweed jacket, wider-striped, ribbed knit, or club tie, solid shirt, solid trousers.
• Wool houndstooth trousers; subtle striped or ribbed knit tie, solid shirt, solid jacket.

Here are examples of combining a patterned suit and shirt with a solid tie.

• Pinstriped suit, subtle hairline-striped or soft striped shirt, solid tie.
• Chalkstriped suit, subtle striped or thin-striped shirt, solid tie.
• Tweed jacket, subtle checked shirt, solid tie.
• Herringbone suit, pale striped shirt, solid tie.

Here are examples of combining a solid suit, patterned shirt, and patterned tie.

• Solid suit, subtle hairline-striped shirt, striped or small patterned tie.
• Solid suit, subtle striped shirt, irregularly wider-striped, small patterned, or club tie.
• Solid suit, subtle plaid shirt, wider-striped check or plaid tie, or ribbed knit where the texture appears patterned.
• Solid suit, subtle checked shirt, club tie.
• Solid suit, white-on-white shirt, any patterned tie.
• Any patterned shirt that is not subtle should be worn with a solid tie.

Don’t: Combine Three Patterns

There is no quicker way to ruin your image than to clutter yourself with too many patterns. You automatically draw the eye away from your face and call attention to the clothes. If you are very clever you may come up with some good pattern combinations, but they will look better on the hanger than under your face. Each pattern competes with the other and the eye has to move around trying to decipher the picture. Your impact is diminished.

Do: Strive for Contrast

It always looks best to have contrast between suit and shirt, shirt and tie. Think how boring a man looks in a grey suit, a white shirt and the same colour grey tie. But change that tie to red, navy, black, or even charcoal grey, and you have an entirely different impression.

There are two ways to create contrast: dark and light or light and bright. Some men need more contrast than others, depending on their season. A blue shirt with a medium blue tie offers medium contrast; a white shirt with a navy tie offers high contrast. The first is fine for Summers, the latter for Winters. All men need some degree of contrast to look exciting.

Contrast is the way to successfully pull off a monochromatic look. Mix a dark brown suit, beige shirt, and coffee tie — elegant. Even though the colours are all from the brown family, they offer varying degrees of intensity.

There are three basic combinations.

• With a dark suit, wear a light shirt and a bright, medium or dark tie. With a medium suit, wear a light shirt and a dark tie.
• With a light suit, wear a medium shirt and a dark tie.
• Winters, who cannot wear medium shirts, should wear a white or striped shirt and a dark or brightish tie.

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