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Housewife Basic fashion Sewing Steps for Clothes that fit

After all the preliminaries of dress-^-making have been finished the fabric and pattern selected, cutting and marking completed—the last stage of the sewing art is at hand. That is the actual sewing of the separate pieces into a garment, and its goal can be summed up in one word: fit.

No matter how distinctive the design, how luxurious the fabric, a garment can make you look well-dressed only if it conforms perfectly to your individual conformation—if it feels comfortable as you sit, stand and move about; hangs smoothly; conforms to bust and hips without pulling or bagging; buttons without gaps; lies smooth and neat around the neck and across the shoulder.

Perfect fit is achieved by assembling the separate pieces in the proper order and taking care to check each piece on your body before proceeding to the next step. Some people make the mistake of attempting shortcuts, of course. When putting together a skirt with patch pockets, for example, it is simpler to stitch the pockets on the fabric before completing the side seams and enclosing the skirt. Following that procedure, you can work with a flat, unclosed piece of fabric rather than one into which you have to reach to attach material; the technique is in fact recommended in instructions accompanying many patterns.

But that is not the best technique. The procedure recommended takes longer, for you must baste the pockets to the skirt after you have placed the seams. However, you are then able to make certain, by modelling the skirt in front of a full-length mirror, that the pockets are in the most becoming position, neither set too far Off the centre line nor placed too high or too low on the skirt. If necessary, you can make appropriate adjustments before proceeding to the final machine stitching.

Similarly, it is an unsound procedure—although fast, easy and frequently recommended—to stitch darts before putting in the seams. Following this method, final fit is then made simply by taking in or letting out the seams. But perfect fit over body contours requires a balance between darts and seams. To achieve that balance, you should first baste the darts and then the seams. Then you should try on the dress in front of your full-length mirror, and proceed to make adjustments to both darts and seams until that perfect balance you are in search of has been reached. Only then do you stitch in the darts, naturally putting the seams in second because they have to pass over the darts.

You will find other steps that seem unnecessary or superfluous. The instructions for assembling a dress, for example, suggest basting a zip in place before trying on the dress to check the fit of the neckline—a more time-consuming procedure than machine stitching the zip to the dress in the first place. The zip must be in place, of course, to check the fit, but if alterations are necessary and it is permanently attached, rather than basted in, you have the laborious task of removing the machine stitches. Or else you will have to make do with a lessthan-perfect fit at the neckline.

Attention to good sewing techniques also helps to make your clothes last longer—an important consideration when working with classic styles. Since they never go out of fashion, classics should be wearable virtually forever. And they will last a long time if care is taken in the making.

Everything you do in sewing counts in the creation of a better-fitting, better-looking, longer-wearing item of clothing—and even the smallest details, such as making pockets and buttonholes, are as important as, say, the fitting of a seam. These elements are subject to more than the normal amount of stress; they need to be built to take it. A pocket will quickly fray or collapse if it is not properly reinforced and stitched at the corners and edges and set firmly into the fabric. A buttonhole sloppily sewn or snipped will soon start to pull apart. And a button improperly placed or sewn without an adequate shank will never slip through its buttonhole with ease and could well pull the whole front of your otherwise carefully finished garment out of line. These may seem small things; nonetheless, they are essential to the durability and the final, finished look of any article of clothing.

In all clothes, there are certain basic elements that have come to be taken for granted—things like pockets and, pleats or buttons and buttonholes.

But the fact is that not all of these have always been common. For centuries, men and women alike got along without pockets, for example; they made do instead with little pouches that hung around the waist. Not until the 16th Century did the first pocket appear inside the combination pants and hose most men wore. By the 19th Century men had become so attached to pockets they were put everywhere and at every angle— horizontally, vertically and diagonally. Women were not so fortunate. They got no pockets whatsoever until the 1800s and then hid them in skirt seams—apparently because no proper lady was supposed to carry anything with her—that was a task performed by a servant or gentleman escort.

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